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Sheepskin, Leather & Fur Glossary


Sheepskin/Shearling Types and Terms and Care Instructions
Leather Types and Terms and Care Instructions
Fur Types and Terms and Care Instructions
Wool Types and Terms and Care Instructions

Sheepskin / Shearling Types and Terms

Artic Merino (Double-Face) Shearling

Only found in Spain, this skin is the softest and lightest of all the shearlings. The wool side is dyed and oxidized with a special treatment to create a unique two tone silver effect.

Bella Toscana Shearling

This fine shearling features a soft suede finish on one side and long, silky wool on the other. The wool on Bella Toscana shearling is hand dyed for a natural, wild look.

Chilean Shearling

This shearling, noted for its exceptional value and durability, is usually from or processed in Chile. Rugged and robust, it's a hardworking, great-looking heavyweight.

Corral Merino (Double-Face) Shearling

This extremely soft Spanish Merino shearling is created by dyeing the skin with multiple colorations and then buffing it. The result is a fabulous contrast: a wild, rugged look on the outside and soft, silky wool on the inside.

Curly Suede Sheepskin

Sometimes referred to as "Slink Lamb," Curly Suede is the name given to sheepskin with tight curls on one side and a suede finish on the other.

Diesel

Diesel is a process of tanning sheepskin hides to yield a durable finish and strong wool.

Entrefino Shearling

This type of shearling is most commonly found in Spain and is renowned for the fine quality of its wool and luxurious hand.

Florentine Merino Shearling

A luxurious Spanish Merino shearling that features a soft suede finish and silky fur that's hand-dyed to create a wild and natural look.

Frontier Shearling (Double-Face) Shearling

Known for rugged good looks and high-level performance, this plush, hardy shearling hails from the chilly mountains of Iceland. Intrepid in even the bitterest weather, it is tanned using century-old techniques.

Ironed Sheepskin

Straightening the wool on sheepskin yields a plush, smooth, fur-like appearance.

Merinillo Shearling

The softest, lightest shearling available, usually from Spain.

Merino Shearling

Usually from Spain or Italy, this fine shearling is highly regarded for its soft hand and superb quality.

Merino Grizzly (Double-Face) Shearling

Double dyed and double sueded for a wild and primitive look, this Spanish Merino is one of the softest, lightest, and finest shearlings available.

Montana Merino (Double-Face) Shearling

This fine Spanish merino shearling features a curly, two-tone appearance.

Northern Merino (Double-Face) Shearling

This classic shearling hails from the north of Spain and is known for rugged elegance and supple softness.

Pelt

A pelt is the naturally beautiful hide or skin of an animal. All of our sheepskin pelts and cowhide rugs are hand-chosen for their quality and beauty; we use only the finest animal skins for long-lasting, rugged elegance.

Stone Buffed Merino Shearling

This Spanish Merino shearling is hand-buffed with volcanic pumice stones and hand-dyed to create a rugged, worn-in look and feel.




Leather Types and Terms

Alaska
Alaska leather is made from special European hides selected for their fine grain and full character. The tanning process is carefully adjusted to enhance the leather's natural beauty and maintain its original character. After, the leather is richly dyed in the drum and finished with a blend of waxes and creams that protect it without clogging it up. The result is a fine, full-grain, full-bodied leather that has all the characteristics of a superior product.

Aniline
A type of color/finish: skins are drum-dyed for a smooth, soft hand.

Anticato Lamb
Anticato is a full-grain, full-aniline, drum-dyed South African lambskin that’s lightly hand buffed to create a vintage look with a soft and smooth hand feel.

Antique Agnello
This full aniline lambskin boasts an incredibly soft feel and a flattering drape. Drum dyed and hand finished with special dyes and oils, Antique Agnello delivers a truly unique vintage look.

Buffed
Any type of leather that has been "buffed," i.e. been polished to soften the surface.

Buff Classique
The Classique leathers are made from select water buffalo hides known for their naturally bold grain and characteristic growth marks. The making of the Classique leathers is a very special process that maintains their original grain patterns and growth marks and gives them remarkable endurance. Combining traditional vegetable tanning with modern science, each leather is deep dyed and stone glazed to bring out the rich natural luster and full body that are the hallmarks of this leather. Since the leathers are deep dyed and not dependent on top-pigmentation for their colors, their richness and beauty increases with age and use.

Buff Nubuck
(see Nubuck, below)

Burlington Calf
A unique Italian calfskin tanned with special oils and waxes in a process that allows the skin to change color tonalities as it is being worn.

Butterskin
This fine leather is created using only the highest grade of English domestic lambskins, which have a tight fiber structure that results in a full-bodied, supple skin. The drape and hand are uniform and the colors rich, as a result of the full-aniline finish. Growthy areas that are normally found in lambskins are less evident in these English domestic lambskins.

Cowhide
Cowhides are select bovine hides that are naturally dried and tanned to ensure extreme softness and durability. “Hair-on cowhide” features the animal’s natural fur for a rugged look and feel.

Cow Sam
The process for the Cow Sam is very similar to the Buff Classique, with some modifications and without the stone-glazing. The leather is firm but still a little mellow to touch.

Deer Nappa
The crème de la crème of skins, Deer Nappa is in a class by itself. The tight pebble grain, soft texture, and supple body of these skins are instantaneously recognizable when made into a garment. Skins are from animals farm-raised in New Zealand and are tanned to exact specifications. The unique marks and patterns found on the skins only enhance their natural beauty.

Eco-Lavato Lamb
Eco-Lavato is a full-grain, aniline-dyed Moroccan lambskin that is put through a special washing process creating a unique and distinctive “well worn” look.

Entrefino
One of the finest skins available, Entrefino comes from its namesake lamb, native to Spain and a small region of Italy. Full aniline and drum dyed, like a fine piece of wood, this skin's translucent depth of color brings up the full elegance of its rugged character.

Featherbuck (Nubuck calf)
An extremely lightweight, full-grain calf leather that is drum dyed and buffed to perfection, delivering an exceptionally soft, sueded hand and beautiful drape.

Glazed Finish
Using pressurized glass or steel rollers, the leather's surface is polished to a high luster.

Goat Suede
Made from the finest goat skins tanned in Spain, Goat Suede is soft, velvety, and extremely lightweight. Goat suede characteristics include a short, tight nap with a very uniform luster. The skins tend to be small, and as a result, most goat suede garments are multi-paneled. Goat suede has a slightly firmer hand than does lamb suede.

Grain
This term refers to the outer surface, markings, or patterns on the leather's surface.

Highland Deer
A full-grain, full-aniline, drum-dyed deer skin, tanned to perfection with a fine pebble grain and buttery soft feel.

Kildare Goat
Tough and resilient but with an incredible texture, Kildare goat skins are considered the most durable of leathers. Drum-dyed and slightly buffed, this leather shows its full rugged character and fine pebble grain.

Lumberjack (*Matisse) Lamb
These skins are full grain, but treated on the flesh side. First the skins are drum-dyed and infused with aniline dyes. Then the flesh side is buffed and sueded, and another layer of dyes is applied to the suede side. Finally, the suede side is buffed by hand, resulting in a unique vintage look and velvety feel.
*Matisse lambs are a special breed between a lamb and a goat.

Metallic
Metallic dyes applied during the tanning process give a lustrous appearance.

Missouri Calf
This light, full-grain calfskin features a natural elegance and a soft, velvety hand. Special oils and waxes are used to enhance this leather's natural vibrancy.

Moose Hide
Rustic and durable, moosehide has a soft, worn-in feel right from the first wear.

Naked Leather
Extremely sought after, Naked Leathers are hand-selected for uniformity and feature no treatments or finishing (other than dyeing) that would alter the leather's natural beauty. Garments from Naked Leather are extremely soft from Day-One and require no breaking-in!

Nap
A short or fuzzy surface on fabric or leather.

Napa
A smooth, semi-aniline shearling, Napa (or Nappa) is a strong, resilient, durable, and one of the softest leathers available today. Originally used only to describe shearling, Napa has in recent years been used interchangeably with the word "soft" to describe other types of leather, as in "Napa cowhide."

Norwegian Lamb
A special selection of skins are used to create the natural texture on this fine leather. With a similar feel to deerskin, Norwegian Lamb is drum-dyed with full anilines for a soft, natural hand.

Nubuck
Also known as Buff Nubuck, this rugged, suede leather ages well and grows in character with use. In a carefully developed two-stage process, selected water buffalo hides are first partially dyed and processed for a unique grain pattern. The hides are then given the velouring or nubuck treatment that gives each leather its individual nap and velvety texture. The hides are then taken back into wooden drums to be richly dyed and treated with special oils and waxes that ensure each hide is strong, supple, and will give years of faithful service.

Oiled Lamb
Oiled lamb is made from the rugged, growthy selection of New Zealand lambskins and is characterized by a "bubbly" nap. The skins are full-aniline dyed, resulting in a natural clarity of color and a soft, supple hand.

Palermo
Made of Italian calfskins, Palermo is characterized by a unique feel that is both supple and rich with character. These skins are the most durable of any skin offered.

Patent
Patent leather is heavily finished to give a highly lustrous, shiny look and sleek feel.

Pearlized
A spray-on finish creates a luminous, pearlized appearance.

Pelt
A pelt is the naturally beautiful hide or skin of an animal. All of our sheepskin pelts and cowhide rugs are hand-chosen for their quality and beauty; we use only the finest animal skins for long-lasting, rugged elegance.

Redlands Calf
This velvety leather features full-grain, drum-dyed calfskin with a natural pebble grain. It is slightly buffed to enhance its softness.

Remy Soft
Extremely lightweight, soft, full-grain nappa lambskin. These skins are tanned in Italy and feature the exceptional handwork available only at select tanneries. The skins exhibit natural clarity, coupled with a soft drape and a weight that is as light as the Remy Lite.

Remy Lite
Remy Lite is the most lightweight leather used in the manufacturing of leather garments. Made of English domestic lambskins, Remy Lite is a suede product with a light resin finish. In time, as the resin wears down, the nap of the suede will become more buffed; however, the color and visual character of the skin will not change. The fine hand and luster of the Remy Lite skin is the ultimate handwork of the tanner's skills.

River-Washed Lamb
This full-grain, aniline-dyed lambskin features a distinctive, naturally "aged" look that is the result of a special pre-washing process.

Sierra Nubuck
High quality South African lambskins are used to create this rugged and elegant nubuck leather. The skins are drum dyed with full aniline dyes and special emollients, buffed to perfection, and then put through a special finished technique that results in a rugged, yet super soft hand.

Suede
Leather that has had the underside buffed to produce a textured, velvety hand.

Timber Calf
A naturally rugged Italian calfskin with a waxy hand, tanned with a special process that allows the skin to change color tonalities as it is worn.

Velour Lamb
Semi-aniline lambskin. Finished on either English lambs or New Zealand lambs, these skins possess a high level of uniformity, finish and texture making them ideal for blouson or blazer style jackets.

Verona Calf
What Rugged Elegance is all about. An extremely lightweight, semi-nubuck calf leather, Verona Calf is drum-dyed and slightly buffed to obtain a soft feel. This, combined with the natural textured look of this skin, creates a truly rugged yet elegant leather.

Water Buffalo Leathers
As natural and rugged as leather can get. A unique, shrunken-grain process ensures that the intrinsic grain in every one of these specially selected hides is brought out in a bold and dramatic manner (no embossed or printed grains are used). The hides are then deep dyed to the final color in the drum in a deliberate, slow, and controlled process. The final result is a rich, natural-grain leather that cannot be matched by the pigment overspray method that many others employ. With use, every item will burnish and develop its own unique character.

Waxy Buff
This skin is exactly the same as buffed leather, but with an added layer of wax applied to give a grain-like feel.

Waxy Milled
A natural look and a buttery soft texture are the hallmarks of waxy milled bovine leather. Its supple softness is beautifully enhanced by the natural milled grain pattern, making it ideal for products where feel and durability are important.

Wilderness
This unique distressed leather boasts one-of-a-kind character. It features a rugged, pebbly look and a wonderfully relaxed feel.

Wild Plonge
A super soft, full aniline drum dyed lambskin, with an incredible hand feel and drape. This is a fully naked skin, meaning that no paints or pigments were applied to the skin but rather the colors were infused by submerging the skins in special oils and aniline dyes, highlighting the natural vibrancy of this leather.

Whisper Suede (*Matisse Lamb)
This beautiful Matisse lambskin is drum-dyed and buffed to perfection to create an extremely soft, silky suede. A full-grain leather (on ordinary suedes, the grain is removed), Whisper suede boasts unique body and drape.
*Matisse lambs are a special breed between a lamb and a goat.

Fur Types and Terms

Beaver
In its natural form, Beaver features long, lustrous guard hairs over a thick, plush underfur. It offers sumptuous warmth and a natural look. Sheared Beaver has a soft, velvety hand and unbeatable warmth. It is often dyed in playful, fashionable colors. Typically, the whiter the fur: the greater the value. A long-haired fur.

Chinchilla
Extremely sought after, Chinchilla boasts an extremely soft, silky texture. It features a short, dense fur with lustrous guard hairs and sumptuous underfur.

Coyote
This distinctive fur is known for its wonderfully wild look and durability. A long-haired fur, it is often pale grey or tan, with soft, thick underfur.

Ermine
Used for the bordering of judges' robes in France and the U.K., Ermine features extremely silky guard hairs and dense underfur.

Finn Raccoon
A soft, supple fur, Finn Raccoon features long, thick, light-colored guard hairs with black tips and dense underfur.

Fisher
From an animal similar to the Martin, Fisher fur is renowned for its soft hand and durability. It features silky guard hairs and a rich, dense underfur.

Fitch
A long-haired, wonderfully natural-looking fur, Fitch features long guard hairs over underfur.

Fox
Soft, luxurious Fox comes in the widest range of natural colors of any fur, with the exception of mink. Natural color varieties include silver cross, crystal blue, red, grey, and white; pelts can also be dyed in fashionable colors. Fox fur features long, lustrous guard hairs with thick, soft underfur.

Goat Fur
Rustic and uniquely textured, goat fur features the animal’s natural hide and fur for a rugged look and feel.

Lynx
Lynx is one of nature's most exquisitely patterned pelts. Canadian Lynx features creamy white tones and characteristic darker markings. Russian Lynx features soft, creamy fur with subtle beige markings.

Marten
Several different types of Martens produce sleek and luxurious pelts. The American Marten features long, silky guard hairs and a dense underfur; the Baum Marten has fur that's softer, shinier, and silkier. The Stone Marten, the finest available, has soft, plush guard hairs and a thick underfur.

Mink
The most popular fur on the market, Mink features soft, lightweight fur, with lustrous guard hairs and soft, dense underfur. The long-haired version of mink offers a more full-bodied alternative to Sheared Mink. A very durable fur. Sheared Mink is velvety soft and smooth, Sheared Mink is lofty, luxurious, durable, and extremely warm-a sporty alternative to full-bodied Mink. Sheared mink can be dyed a wide range of fashionable colors.

Nutria
Very similar to Beaver, Nutria is a silky, lightweight fur that is often shorn, for a sporty look. A versatile fur, it's used frequently in linings and trims and can be dyed a variety of fashionable colors.

Rabbit
Soft, silky, and extremely popular, Rabbit is wonderfully lightweight and warm. Typically, Rabbit features medium-length guard hairs and is often sheared or grooved for a more sporty look.

Raccoon
Soft, sumptuous, and beautiful in its natural coloring, Raccoon features long grey or black guard hairs with silver tips, with a thick, dense underfur. Wild and wooly, Raccoon is a very durable fur.

Rex Rabbit
Rex Rabbit is known for its plush, velvety hand and sumptuous feel. Can be worn natural, long, and silky, or sheared and sporty.

Sable
Sable is an abundant yet lightweight fur that is known for its quality and durability. In general, Sable features long, luxurious guard hairs and thick underfur. Russian Sable, the most coveted Sable, is brown with silver fur. Canadian Golden Sable features gold and amber hues.

Sheared Beaver
Sheared Beaver has a soft, velvety hand and unbeatable warmth. It is often dyed in playful, fashionable colors. Typically, the whiter the fur: the greater the value. A long-haired fur. Beaver (natural) In its natural form, Beaver features long, lustrous guard hairs over a thick, plush underfur. It features sumptuous warmth and a natural look.

Sheared Mink
Velvety soft and smooth, Sheared Mink is lofty, luxurious, durable, and extremely warm-a sporty alternative to full-bodied Mink. The most popular fur available, mink can be dyed a wide range of fashionable colors. Mink (natural) features soft, lightweight fur, with lustrous guard hairs and soft, dense underfur. A more full-bodied alternative to Sheared Mink.

Tanuki
The Japanese raccoon boasts exotic, sumptuous fur with distinctive markings. Tanuki is well known for its long guard hairs and supple hand.

Fine Wool Types and Terms

Alpaca
The long, fine fleece of the alpaca (a south American mammal related to the llama) is rich and silky, with exquisite luster. Alpaca is a lightweight yet warm wool.

Mohair
An extremely resilient and strong fabric, Mohair comes from the angora goat. A lustrous, robust fabric.

Angora
Renowned for its softness, Angora wool comes from the angora rabbit and is commonly used in baby clothes, scarves and mittens, and fine sweaters.

Camel Hair
This extremely soft, fine fur comes from the undercoats of camels. Lightweight yet remarkably warm, camel hair is commonly used to make fine coats-on its own or combined with fine wool. Like Cashmere, it travels well and does not wrinkle.

Cashmere
A famously soft fabric, cashmere comes from the down of Kasmir goats. The process used to separate the soft fibers from the longer, coarser hairs is time-intensive and laborious, which is one of the reasons cashmere is so highly prized (it takes the fleece from over two goats to make a two-ply sweater, and six goats for a sports jacket). Cashmere can be used on its own or blended with silk, cotton, or wool. Like Camel Hair, it travels well and does not wrinkle.

Broadcloth
This all-woolen or worsted fabric is renowned for its velvety feel.

Gabardine
This tightly woven wool twill features a high sheen. Excellent for tailoring, this fabric hangs and wears very well.

Harris Tweed
This soft, hand-woven fabric comes from Scotland.

Laine
French for "wool."

Lambsdown
A heavy knit fabric that has a spongy fleeced nap on one side.

Nap
A short or fuzzy surface on fabric or leather.

Merino Wool
One of the finest wools, Merino is soft, luxurious, and reminiscent of cashmere. Renowned for its soft hand and durability, this fabric is popularly used in fine sweaters and coats.

Tweed
This rough, textured wool is both sturdy and stylish.

Virgin Wool
Wool that has never been processed into fabric.

Worsted Wool
A fabric made from firm, compactly twisted woolen yarn made from long-staple fibers.

 
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